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Danielle Brooks Launches Plus-Size Clothing With Universal Standard

"And I was like, Oh, I can make it! The shirtdress is very similar to that outfit [of hers]." The Danielle Shirtdress “The shirtdress was inspired by one of my fashion icons, Solange Knowles," says Brooks. "Too often, I’m not able to wear the cool, unique statement pieces that I see because they never run in my size. This piece will have people asking you, ‘Excuse me, where did you get that?’” ($110 in black, rose, or teal, Universal Standard ) We've all heard that, when it comes to designing plus-size clothes, there are certain nuances that can make the process difficult: You can't simply grade-up designs, for instance; pieces have to accommodate increasingly varied body shapes (this is why elastic waistbands still exist); and that extra material can get super expensive. But for Brooks, the biggest learning curve was how to work with fabrics: "You know, what fabric will fall right, what fabric will lay right on the body, what fabric will work around the armpit versus the ankle. I like to wear my undergarments and cinchers, and a lot of times you can see the imprint of them under the garment. It was all about the fabrics." (FYI: The shirtdress is made of a cotton-nylon-elastane blend, the sweater dress of a wool-cashmere blend, and the overalls of a cotton-elastane blend.) If you're a fan of Brooks' style (or follow her on Instagram ), you probably know she's tight with some designers. "For the past few years, it was very important to me to challenge these designers to bring plus sizes to stores," she says. "Now that I’m starting to enter into [the fashion] world on a deeper level, I’m starting to realize: Who cares about them?" she says, of the designers who haven't dressed her. "They never cared about me." When it came time to design, Brooks asked a simple question: "Why not focus on brands that actually—from the beginning—cared about making me feel good in clothes?" And she wasn't done with the real talk there: "I have gone to fancy events and confronted huge designers and said, like, 'Hey, like, why haven’t you designed for plus sizes?' And they go blank.

For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit https://www.glamour.com/story/danielle-brooks-universal-standard-plus-size-clothes

Balti began researching how fabric was made and what could be improved to lessen its harmful impact on the planet. Working with a fabric engineer, she developed a Tencel and Modal blend made from renewable eucalyptus and beech trees. Balti used the fabric to design a staple that was missing from the sustainable clothing lines she’d seen: a nautical-striped T-shirt. The shirts caught the eye of Gywneth Paltrow, who soon collaborated with Amour Vert to sell shirts on her own site, goop. Orders from retailers including Nordstrom and Fred Segal came fast. The business was doing very well, but in time Balti wanted more. “We were a young brand but we had all the big stores,” she says. “The only frustration I had with a wholesale business model was that I could not tell the story of the fabrics and the brand.” Amour Vert’s sustainable fashion line is made in the United States. Balti and Frehsee, who became co-founder and CEO, reinvented the brand to sell directly to consumers as well.

For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit https://www.forbes.com/sites/susanprice/2017/11/13/a-native-parisian-spins-a-thriving-ethical-clothing-brand-from-sustainable-fibers/

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